 |
 click for CEDAR FENCES |
CEDAR WOOD FENCE INSTALLATION
ITEMS YOU MAY NEED TO BEGIN INSTALLATION OF YOUR FENCE
Boards / Panels & Posts, Power Saw, Post Hole Digger, Small Axe,
Steel Tape Measure,
Hammer Gloves,
Marking Pencil,
Work or Hatchet,
Nails or Screws,
Hand Saw,
Gravel, Sand,
Ready-Mix Concrete,
Level, Wood Chisel,
Tamping Rod
FENCE LAYOUT - MARKING POST LOCATIONS
Generally, posts are set between 6 ft to 8 ft apart. Post spacing depends on the Style and type of fence you have designed or purchased., the grade of the site, the use of the fence, and other such considerations. The corner or end post should be set first. Extend a string-line from the corner or end post to the next corner or end post so all the intermediate posts can be aligned along that sting-line.
Mark each location of the post hole with a temporary stake making sure that
the post location is accurate. The final result of your project the strength
and longevity of your fence relies great deal on the installation of your
post.
FENCE POSTS SETTING
Wood
Posts are usually set with about 35% of the length (approximate rule of thumb)
in ground. Corner and End Posts may be set slightly longer in ground as it will
carry most of the weight and wind stress.
With
ordinary post hole digger, dig the post holes straight, of correct depth and
width where the stakes are marked. The holes should be slightly larger at the
bottom to allow proper anchoring.
Put
large stone or two shovels full of gravel in the bottom of each hole to allow
drainage and to avoid excessive moisture build up at the bottom of each post.
Cedar
is naturally insect and decay resistant. Other woods may require that you apply
wood preservative on the buried portion, soaking overnight is recommended for
proper saturation.
The
posts are set with either compacted dirt or set in pre-mixed, cement concrete
mix (readily available at home center stores in 5 & 10 lb bags). Don’t forget to
put gravel at the bottom first as mentioned above. Be sure that the posts are
“plum”, straight upright. This can be checked with a regular level. Attach
temporary brace supports to the leveled posts until the concrete dries and fully
hardens in place, (usually requires several days to fully harden). Thorough
tamping is required if using compact dirt method. In both methods, at the top,
a slight mounding rising around to the post (slope down away from post) would
prevent water from accumulating around the post and would flow away from the
post, for long-term stability. Ensure at all times that the upright alignment of
the post does not change while working around it. In all cases it is desirable
to set the corner, end and gate posts in concrete for strength and stability for
the panel weight and wind load. After posts are firmly set strong add fence
panels.
ATTACHING RAILS OR FENCE PANELS TO POSTS
There
are four common methods.
-
The rails are nailed to the top of the post on surface. This is an ideal
installation for many types of fencing styles, particularly, picket panels
and spaced board panels. The top rail can always be joined to another rail
in the center of a post in this method
-
The rails or fence panels can be grooved into the posts on the back side
known also as mortised method. The mortised joint is even neater than the
butt joint, but you must cut a mortise into the post for this joint.
-
The butt joint is one of the common methods to use. The butt joint is a
little more difficult to make but is often better.
-
Finally, there are metal brackets available at your local home center that
allow you to attach the rails or panels on the side of the posts or in the
backside of the post.
|
|
